Weather: Rain (again)

I was under the impression that the best time to visit Japan was March and April because the weather is nice. The one good thing I can say about the rain is that it isn’t too hot and actually make the temperature pleasant for walking.

Today I got to sleep in a bit and didn’t get up until 6:00am. Usually, I’m up at 5:00am or 5:30am in order to have breakfast do last minute repackaging and out the door by 7:00am. This morning though, Ito-san from the Inn gave me and a German woman who was staying at the same inn a ride to the station. So we set out a bit later. The train had a balcony on the side, but it was too cold and too wet to enjoy.

I got off at Tonohama station and made my way up to Temple 27 (Konomineji.) It is only 4.2km but starting at the station at sea level the temple is near the top of the mountain at 424.6m.

I have put everything in a plastic bags. Because of all the rain the last couple of days everything is soaking wet! Luckily the place I’m staying tonight in Konan city has a dryer. Yay for warm dry clothes!

When I got to the top my faithful Henro bag fell apart. It got soaked by all the rain, bits of the inside plastic was coming off in flakes, but the biggest injury to the bag was the rip where the strap meets the bag. I would’ve taken a picture, but I’ll give the bag a bit of dignity. May it rest in pieces. 😉 I now have a new handy dandy henro bag.

On my way to Konan I stopped off at Aki. The town has an old Samurai Residence Street and an area that was once a castle but is now a Museum of local folk traditions (I was not allowed to take any pictures – they had Girls’ Day Festival dolls on display and I was given a pamphlet). Aki is also the birthplace of Yataro Iwasaki (the founder of Mitsubishi company)… I did not go to his childhood home.

Weather: Rain

Started out at 6:30am and got to Temple 25 (Shinshoji) in Muroto a little before 7am. The temple office does not open until 7:00am so I made my way to the main temple and then the Daishi temple. I have gotten really quick at doing the chants and have one memorized.

Walked to Temple 26 (Kongochoji). Went up by forest path and went down by different forest path. (It was really slippery and I was glad I had my walking poles for support). At the bottom of the hill there was a Whale Museum, so I went in and paid ¥500 to see this place. The best thing about it was the Virtual Reality film when one is under water “swimming” with whales.

I had lunch at a burger place run by a guy who likes to surf. Apparently, that area is good for short board surfing.

I then stated walking toward the place I booked for tonight in Nahari about a 21km distance. On the way I passed through Kiragawa (a town which as preserved the buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century.)

I got about 14 k from Kongochoji, when my feet got the better of me and I took a bus.

It was not the sprain – that rarely bothers me now. It is not blisters – I only have one from the wrap I had around my ankle for the sprain. In fact, I have to thank Rachel for suggesting wearing 2 layers of socks. A pair of smartwool and another thick sock on top of that.

I believe it is Plantar Fasciitis. The pain is in both heels and first thing in the morning my first steps are painful. It started after Temple 10. Last night and this morning I did some stretches that help relieve the symptoms. It felt better this morning, but after over 31,000 steps I am feeling it again. (Tomorrow might be a lighter walking day)

Today was also the first time I visited an onsen (hot spring) on this trip. It had a ryotenburo (outside hot spring). I was the only person in there so I got to relax and spend a long time in the Ryotenburo.

I’m on the road again. The day started out with a light drizzle turning into a torrential downpour. (Cars don’t slow down when they past you, so every time a car approaches one has to turn slightly away as it will inevitably go through a puddle as it passes.)

I got to the bottom of mountain where Temple 20 (Kakuriji) is situated and luckily there was a FamilyMart. I got a hot coffee and called a cab. There is uncomfortable and then there is UNCOMFORTABLE. I am choosing the Buddhist middle way and going for uNcOmFoRtAbLe.

I kept the cab waiting while at Kakuriji, and had it take me to the bottom of the cable car at Temple 21 (Tairyuji). It was still raining pretty hard when I got on the cable car to go back down… but it stopped raining and the sun came out once I was at the bottom of the mountain. Go figure!

I ended the day visiting Temple 22 (Byodoji) which is known for curing all sorts of sickness. This is where the charm I bought at Temple 9 (Horinji) – known for curing leg ailments – broke and I got a new charm for good mind and body.

On my walk today, I met a man named March from Taiwan who told me that there used to be 88 temples in Taiwan dedicated to Kobo Daishi, but now there are only 3. He also told me there is a Temple in Fukuoka dedicated to Kobo Daishi – I had no idea! Fukuoka is the point Daishi returned to Japan from China.

If you have been following me from the beginning of this Pilgrimage, you might have noticed I had mislabeled one of my posts… apparently I skipped Day 3… it is now numbered correctly…I hope.