Day 18

April 4, 2023 saucee193 Comments

Weather: sunny (a bit misty and cool in the mountain morning)

The guest house let me keep my rucksack with them while I went to Temple 45 (Iwayaji). Which was nice of them and I took the first bus to the base of the temple.

Buses and trains in Japan are extremely reliable. If it says there’s going to be at a bus at 8:11am there will be a bus at 8:11am. The only thing about buses in rural areas (read: most of Shikoku) is that if you miss the bus, you might have to wait an hour to two hours until the next bus.

The bus stop for the temple, as per norm, is at the bottom of the hill/mountain. And it says it is only 0.7 km. Great! Except it is up a hill and many steps.

In the end it wasn’t too bad. And I bumped into an Australian couple who were travelling in a skirt and kilt, respectively.

At the top and beside one of the temples there was a ladder to go to a cave above the temple. Some people might think it stupid to go all that way and not climb it – in my case – given I’m accident prone… it would have been stupid for me to climb it. And just as stupid, if not more so, for me to do a circular route that puts one on a cliff face to see where Kukai did his training. One needs a key from the monk in the office to do this trip. Needless to say, I did not ask for the key.

I started to walk back to Temple 44 (Daihoji) and my rucksack at the guest house and got as far as an onsen hotel, where I saw the bus schedule – and if I waited 15 minutes I could catch it most of the way back.

I got on the bus and we travelled a little ways when we stopped and picked up the Aussies, an American, and a Japanese. Apparently, they have been travelling together since around Temple 13. (There were 2 other Americans travelling with them, but they were doing the crazy cliff side circular route).

I ended up travelling with them back to Temple 44 where we parted ways only to meet up again on a bus that brings us to a pass where we walk to a Ryokan in front of Temple 46 (Joruriji). It was too late to visit Joruriji, but it turns out we are all staying at the same Ryokan.

Tomorrow I will be travelling with this self proclaimed motley crew.

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Day 17

April 3, 2023April 3, 2023 saucee19Leave a comment

Weather: Sunny high of 19*C

Started the morning with Uwajima City’s favourite dish: Hyugameshi – fresh sliced sea bream dipped in a sauce containing raw egg and soy sauce, sake and mirin. It is supposed to be served atop piping hot rice… but I’m not a fan of raw egg on rice so I just dipped the fish in the sauce and ate it that way.

The interactive map I’ve been using henro.org is great. I can put in my destination and it will tell me the best way to get there…except for going to temple 44. I checked at Uwajima City and it showed me a ridiculous route. My Henro guidebook said to catch a bus from Matsuyama Station, so I went to Matsuyama Station and tried again. This is what the link showed me.

I asked at the Tourist Information Centre and they pointed me to the correct bus. The bus ride only took 1 hour and 20 minutes as opposed to the 1 day and 2 hour journey the interactive map suggested. It was also a fraction of the cost.

I made it to the half way point Temple 44 (Daihoji)!

Temple 44 (Daihoji). Half way point. The giant straw sandals are replaced ever 100 years.

I am staying at a place near Daihoji in a town called Kuma-kogen. Walking down a street in the town there were hinamatsuri dolls everywhere! I’ve never seen so many in one place! Today, apparently is the last day they are displaying the dolls.

Hinamatsuri dolls with a hinamatsuri song.

At 3pm there was a siren (like a tsunami warning siren) and then an announcement that I couldn’t understand partly because of the echoes from the loudspeakers and partly because there were words I didn’t understand and then a bunch of fire trucks, police vehicles, and ambulances started flashing their lights, wailing their sirens and speeding down the road. I started to freak out, but then realized that no one else on the street looked worried nor were they running for their lives. It was a mountain fire, luckily it was put out quickly. In mountainous areas, I found out, there are 3 sirens: one for fires, one for earthquakes, and one for heavy rain (which may cause landslides)…tsunami…not so much. 🥴

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Day 16

April 2, 2023 saucee194 Comments

Weather: Sunny again high of 22*C

Started today with train ride to Ito-Miyanoshita, and walked to Temple 41 (Ryukoji). I then walked to Temple 42(Butsumokuji). Apparently, I was quite lucky as after I got my Nokyocho stamped the monk closed the stamp area, and people who arrived after me were wondering what to do.

At Butsumokuji, I met Mr. Akisue who was doing his 9th Henro. He was my guide and companion through the Hanaga Pass (a dangerous 500m mountain pass). I was glad he was with me as there were many times when the path was not clearly marked and there was one section which was lost due to a landslide, but it was worth the view and “short cut”.

Not sure what this is but it eats insects and is becoming rare in Japan

We reached Temple 43 (Meisekiji) at about 2:00pm. The hardest part of walking the 13.7km was the asphalt roads.

On my walk from Meisekiji to the train station we walked through on old part of town and passed an old and famous Ryokan (I have forgotten the name). Part of me wishes I had known about this Ryokan as I would have tried to stay there. Instead I headed back to Uwajima, and my rucksack. I am glad I did that part of the journey with only my zudabukuro (pilgrim’s bag) as the heavy rucksack would have made the Hanaga Pass miserable.

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Day 15

April 1, 2023 saucee192 Comments

Weather: Sunny… got a bit of a sunburn on the tip of my ear (today’s high was 22*C)

Started out late today as the bus to Temple 39 (Enkoji) didn’t leave until 8am. I met Sophie on the bus and we went to Enkoji together. This Temple is famous for an eye washing well which is to cure eye disease… but it was covered up. There is also a legend of a turtle coming out of the sea with a red bell on its back. Temple 39 is the last temple in Kochi. – Thus ending the “Ascetic training” stage.

Sophie continued on by foot as she was staying between temple 39 and 40. I went on to Temple 40 (Kanjizaiji) by bus and started the Ehime part of the journey: Enlightenment). Kanjizaiji is the furthest away from Temple 1.

I then went to Uwajima where I’m staying tonight and tomorrow and visited the castle. The castle is a Japanese National Treasure as it is one of twelve castles to still have the original wooden tenshu (keep).

News on feet: Not sure if I’m now used to the pain or if the stretching and walking is helping but feet aren’t as painful as it was in Tokushima.

Travel

Day 14

March 31, 2023 saucee19Leave a comment

Weather: Sunny with light showers in the afternoon

Started with train ride to Kubokawa Station and a 5 minute walk to Temple 37 (Iwamotoji). Said goodbye to Kyoko-san as she continued on foot and I took the train to Nakamura Station.

From Nakamura Station I took a bus down to Ashizuri and to Temple 38 (Kongofukuji). The garden at Kongofukuji was really peaceful.

There is also a statue of John Manjiro near the temple. In 1841, John Manjiro and 4 friends left Tosa-Shimizu City and got caught in a storm on their fishing vessel and landed on an inhabited island. They were rescued by an American whaling ship and brought to Hawaii. John learnt English and later returned to Japan in 1851, and later became an interpreter and translator for the government when Commodore Perry arrived in Yokohama to force open Japan to the rest of the world.

Didn’t do much walking today, but am tired from all the travelling.

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Day 13

March 30, 2023 saucee192 Comments

Weather: Sunny

Started the day with a bus ride to the bottom of Temple 35 (Kiyotakiji). And then another bus to a stop near Temple 36 (Shoryuji).

It was about noon when I got to the start of Shoryuji, so I decided to stop in a restaurant where one barbecues one’s own (mostly) seafood lunch. The only seafood that wasn’t fresh were the frozen prawns.

I met up with Kiyoko-san again today! It was weird, I was thinking about her earlier in the day and was wondering how she was getting on with her Henro and then she appeared just as I was leaving Shoryuji. I told her where I was staying tonight and she managed to get a room at the same cute business hotel.

Temple 36 (Shoryuji).The Main Temple and the Daishi Temple are at the top of the stairs.

It was nice to catch up with her and hear about her travels over dinner at a ramen place. (This area is famous for their Nabeyaki Ramen). She will be finishing her Henro at Temple 65 (that is where she started from), but tomorrow we will set off together. She has already done Temple 37 (Iwamotoji) today, so she will continue on by foot to Temple 38 (Kongofukuji) while I go to Temple 37.

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Day 12

March 29, 2023 saucee19Leave a comment

Weather: Sunny

The owner of the guest house I stayed at was really helpful. She suggested an itinerary for Sophie (another German woman) and offered to pick her up at a grocery store close to the last temple Sophie would be going to today and bring her back to the guesthouse as well as bring her back to the grocery store the next day.

The owner also offered to have my rucksack brought to the place I’m staying tonight. I agreed and was extremely grateful for her help.

Without my rucksack I was able to walk further than expected. I am staying at a place in front of Temple 33 (Sekkeiji) but I walked to Temple 34 (Tanemaji) today and came back. I’m taking public transport tomorrow morning to the bottom of the mountain of Temple 35 (Kiyotakiji).

Temple 32 (Zenjibuji) also on top of a hill/mountain had a view of the ocean and the farming area. There are a lot of solar farms(?) in Shikoku – areas of land where the only thing on it are solar panels.

Not sure what this is, but it was at Temple 32 (Zenjibuji)… so I had Usagi-chan pose with it.

Part of the view from Temple 32 (Zenjibuji)

There are also a lot of Tsunami evacuation stations especially along the coast of Kochi. Many of there were put up after the earthquake and tsunami of 2011.

One of many tsunami evacuation stations along the coast.

Between Temple 32 and 33 there is a small ferry which is free to ride and was a nice change to walking on hard paved roads.

Once on the other side there was a Sake brewery…so I stopped in to have a free sampling of their tipple

After that I went to Temple 33 (Sekkeiji) but forgot to take a picture… I blame the sake.

But I did manage to take a photo of Temple 34 (Tanemaji)…one of the few temples not on a hill/mountain

Temple 34 (Tanemaji). The farmers are preparing the beds for ginger. There are more than the one farmer in this picture, but you have to look very hard – you also have to look carefully for the Temple.

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Day 11

March 28, 2023 saucee19Leave a comment

Weather: Sunny

Started the day with Temple 31(Chikurinji). The Henro route goes through The Kochi Prefectural Makino Botanical Garden, so as a pilgrim one can see the gardens for free.

Henro path that goes through Makino Botanical Garden

After visiting Chikurinji I walked to the Kochi Art Museum. They have a collection of Marc Chagall’s lithographs.

I wanted to go to CUL-PORT (Yokohama Memorial Manga Museum) but apparently the are closed for renovations until April of this year. So instead, I went to the sight of Sakamoto Ryoma’s birthplace… it was a stone memorial between two office buildings.

Birthplace of Sakamoto Ryoma…I’m pretty sure there once was a house there and Ryoma wasn’t born on the sidewalk between office buildings. 😉

After that a short visit to Kochi Castle and then dinner of tataki (lightly roasted bonito). Tataki is the specialty of Kochi.

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Day 10

March 27, 2023 saucee19Leave a comment

Weather: Sunny !!!!

Went to Temple 28 (Dainichiji) first thing in the morning, and bumped into the German woman from the day before. I didn’t see her again for the rest of the day. It might be because she used Google maps instead of the henro signs posted on the road along the way.

I found that following the henro signs sometimes adds an extra half hour or more to the walk. So from Temple 29 (Kokubunji) to Temple 30 (Zenrakuji) I followed the signs for a bit then took a shorter route, which was also marked but not as well.

From Temple 30 I walked to Tosa-Ikku Station. I then took the train to Kochi, where I will be spending the next two nights in order to do some sightseeing.

View down the main Boulevard from Kochi Station

Not sure why so many of the temples are on a hill/ mountain? Luckily, today only one was slightly higher (only 2 flights of stairs and NO hairpin bends with ridiculous inclines!)

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Day 9

March 26, 2023 saucee19Leave a comment

Weather: Rain (again)

I was under the impression that the best time to visit Japan was March and April because the weather is nice. The one good thing I can say about the rain is that it isn’t too hot and actually make the temperature pleasant for walking.

Today I got to sleep in a bit and didn’t get up until 6:00am. Usually, I’m up at 5:00am or 5:30am in order to have breakfast do last minute repackaging and out the door by 7:00am. This morning though, Ito-san from the Inn gave me and a German woman who was staying at the same inn a ride to the station. So we set out a bit later. The train had a balcony on the side, but it was too cold and too wet to enjoy.

I got off at Tonohama station and made my way up to Temple 27 (Konomineji.) It is only 4.2km but starting at the station at sea level the temple is near the top of the mountain at 424.6m.

I have put everything in a plastic bags. Because of all the rain the last couple of days everything is soaking wet! Luckily the place I’m staying tonight in Konan city has a dryer. Yay for warm dry clothes!

When I got to the top my faithful Henro bag fell apart. It got soaked by all the rain, bits of the inside plastic was coming off in flakes, but the biggest injury to the bag was the rip where the strap meets the bag. I would’ve taken a picture, but I’ll give the bag a bit of dignity. May it rest in pieces. 😉 I now have a new handy dandy henro bag.

On my way to Konan I stopped off at Aki. The town has an old Samurai Residence Street and an area that was once a castle but is now a Museum of local folk traditions (I was not allowed to take any pictures – they had Girls’ Day Festival dolls on display and I was given a pamphlet). Aki is also the birthplace of Yataro Iwasaki (the founder of Mitsubishi company)… I did not go to his childhood home.